Rau ntau, perfumery tuaj yeem tsuas yog Fabkis. Nyob nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua puv 19, ntau cov naj hoom tau tuaj yeem ua pov thawj qhov tsis sib xws thiab txhim tsa kev tsim cov naj hoom thiab xab npum hauv tebchaws Lavxias, uas tsis zoo li lwm tus tshaj li cov neeg hauv Paris.
Lavxias teb sab perfumery. Pib
Lub ntsiab tseem ceeb ntawm Lavxias perfumery yog nws txoj kev sib txuas zoo nrog cov tshuaj. Tau ntev nyob rau hauv Russia, txhua yam tshuaj pleev ib ce (ntsej mua nce ntshav, antimony, whitewash thiab xyab) tau nyob ntawm tib lub txee nrog tshuaj thiab tshuaj ntsuab. Yog li no, feem ntau ntawm cov naj hoom ntawm Lavxias teb chaws tau los ntawm ib puag ncig ntawm cov kws tshuaj thiab cov kws tshuaj.
Cov tshuaj pleev ib ce organic peb txoj kev
Thawj cov tshuaj tsw qab ntawm Lavxias feem ntau muaj cov npe yooj yim thiab tsis yooj yim: "Cornflowers", "Lilac", "Zoo lily ntawm lub hav", "Nile lily". Thiab qhov taw tes ntawm no tsis yog qhov tsis muaj lub tswv yim: cov khoom xyaw ntuj, feem ntau yog paj, tau siv los ua cov zoo li ntawd. Thawj cov khoom siv hluavtaws ua thawj zaug rau kev tsim cov tshuaj tsw qab nyob hauv Russia tau tshwm sim tsuas yog hauv nees nkaum ntawm lub xyoo pua XX.
Cov ntxhiab ntawm nto moo thiab "qhov ntswg"
Xyoo 1843, hauv nroog Moscow, Fab Kis Alphonse Ralle tsim lub tsev ua haujlwm naj hoom “A. Ralle & Co ", uas ua 160 hom khoom lag luam perfumery. Lub tuam txhab tau txais 60 qhov khoom plig zoo tshaj plaws hauv lub rooj nthuav dav. Niaj hnub no cov tuam txhab naj hoom niaj hnub tuaj yeem tsuas khib txoj kev vam meej no. Alphonse Ralle tau ntxim nyiam cov neeg dawb huv nrog nws lub aromas thiab tau txais cai kom muab plaub lub tsho tiv no ntawm caj npab ntawm Lavxias Lub Teb Chaws Asmeskas rau nws cov khoom lag luam. Lub cim ntawm cov khoom lag luam zoo tshaj plaws.
Ralle yog thawj zaug tau tawm los ntawm lub npe thiaj li hu ua "lub caij ntuj no naj hoom". Nyob rau hauv lub Moscow frosty huab cua, lawv nrhiav tau ib tug tshwj xeeb ntxim nyiam - ib lub teeb ci siv lead ua sau. Thawj qhov zoo nkauj ntawm lub sijhawm ntawd tau hu lawv "Perfume de furor" ("Naj hoom rau cov plaub"), yog li tom qab ntawd nws tau hnav khaub ncaws zoo heev rau plhaw ntsej muag, hnab looj tes thiab kaus mom nrog lawv.
Hereditary perfumer Heinrich Brocard pib nws txoj haujlwm xyoo 1861 ntawm ib qho ntawm Moscow chaw ua haujlwm naj hoom. Nws pib nrog xab npum: "Cov Me Nyuam" nrog cov tsiaj ntawv Lav Xias ntxig tawm ntawm nws, "Amber" thiab "zib ntab". Thiab tom qab 3 xyoo nws nrhiav tau nws tus kheej ua lag luam - lub tuam txhab "Brocar thiab Co", uas tom qab 10 xyoo tau txais lub npe ntawm cov neeg muab khoom ntawm lub chaw muag khoom ntawm Grand Duchess Maria Alexandrovna.
Nyob rau St. Petersburg, ob qhov kev lag luam loj tau tsim lub suab nrov. Tus kws muab tshuaj thiab cov tub lag luam ntawm thawj cov lag luam Guild Fedor Ivanovich Kal hauv xyoo 1860 tau tsim "Chaw Tshuaj Petersburg Tshuaj Kuaj", uas tsim cov tshuaj tsw qab zoo thiab xim zoo nkauj. Twb tau muaj xyoo 1890 qhov chaw ua lag luam hu ua St. Petersburg Chemical Laboratory Joint Stock Company, thiab lub tuam tsev muag khoom raug tswj los ntawm leej txiv ntawm tus kws sau paj lug Sasha Cherny. Qhov thib ob "naj hoom" ntawm lub nroog yog kev sib koom tes nrog lub npe zoo sib xws "St. Petersburg Techno-Chemical Laboratory". Nws suav nrog chav haujlwm Vasily Aurich, muaj npe tom qab tsim cov naj hoom tsim, tus thawj pabcuam hauv chaw kuaj ntshav, lossis, raws li nws raug hu nyob rau lub sijhawm, "lub qhov ntswg" ntawm lub hoobkas, Vasily Aurich.
Alexander Ostroumov yog thawj cov tshuaj pleev ib ce Lavxias teb sab chaw muag tshuaj uas muaj npe nrov rau kev tsim cov khoom lag luam tawm tsam. Txhua qhov nyiaj tau los ntawm kev muag cov nyiaj, nws tau nqis peev hauv nws cov khoom lag luam ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab. Thiab nws ua txoj cai txiav txim siab! Naj hoom los ntawm Ostroumov tau siv los ntawm tag nrho "ntiaj teb sab sauv". Ntawm cov kiv cua ntawm Ostroumov cov khoom lag luam perfumery yog ballerina Tamara Karsavina, tus kws hu nkauj Nadezhda Plevitskaya, ballerina Maria Petipa, Maly Theatre actress Vera Pashennaya, prima ntawm Bolshoi Theatre, hu nkauj Antonina Nezhdanova, Elena Stepanova thiab ntau lwm tus.
Lub Yim Hli Michel, ib tus neeg ntseeg dab neeg ntawm Lavxias naj hoom kev ua lag luam, tus tsim ntawm cov naj hoom nto npe hu ua "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet", tsim rau 300 xyoo tseem ceeb ntawm lub tsev ntawm Romanov. Ib tug neeg ua haujlwm ntawm lub tsev lag luam ntawm Brokara, uas tau los ua tus thawj roj tsw qab ntawm "Novaya Zarya", tau hloov npe ua nws tus naj hoom nrov npe "Krasnaya Moskva".
