Tsis muaj kev txwv ntau nyob hauv lub ntiaj teb dua li kev lom zem: kab tias yuav luag txhua yam kev lom zem tau raug lossis yuav dhau los txwv. Qhov tsis paub meej ntawm luam yeeb yog ib qho ntawm lawv: nws tau raug txwv ib zaug rau cov poj niam, thiab nyob rau xyoo tsis ntev los no, ntau tus neeg haus luam yeeb muab cov luam yeeb ntau thiab nco lawv tus kheej ntawm lawv tsuas yog nrog cov tshuaj tsw qab kim.
Cov lag luam nyob sab Europe thiab Asmeskas cov neeg lag luam muag luam yeeb muaj nyob rau feem ntau kaum xyoo thiab ib nrab, tab sis kev haus luam yeeb tau tawm tsam ua ntej. Thiab qhov tseem ceeb tshaj plaws, nws raug txwv tsis pub ua poj niam. Kev haus luam yeeb yeeb nkab hauv xyoo pua 18th, luam yeeb lossis luam yeeb ntawm xyoo pua puv 19, thiab txawm tias luam yeeb thaum pib ntawm lub xyoo pua 20th tau pom tias muaj ntau tus poj niam, tsis hais tus laus ("tsis tshem tawm qhov kev xyiv fab kawg?"), Lossis tshaj tawm ("Dab tsi koj tuaj yeem nqa los ntawm lawv!") - xws li Carmen, tus neeg ua haujlwm luam yeeb Hoobkas, tus yeeb yam txaus siab thiab tsis khav theeb ntawm Merimee's novella thiab Bizet cov yeeb yam. Cov ntxhais hauv zej zog siab tau haus luam yeeb hauv kev tawm tsam, tab sis ua li ntawd tsis pub leej twg paub, lossis tsawg kawg yog tsis tshaj tawm, txog thaum ua viav vias 20s. Thawj Tsov Rog Thoob Ntiaj Teb tau hloov pauv ntau thiab muab cov poj niam ntau txoj cai: lawv tsis yog pib haus luam yeeb nkaus xwb, tab sis kuj tsim teeb meem nrog luam yeeb rau cov duab thiab tshaj tawm. Tib lub sijhawm, naj hoom nrog cov ntxhiab tsw ntawm luam yeeb tau tshwm sim.
"Cov ntsiab lus ntawm kev haus luam yeeb tau ua rau hauv perfumery tsawg kawg ib puas xyoo," said Galina Anni, tus kws tshaj lij rau naj hoom thiab naj hoom, tus tsim ntawm Sweet Sixties naj hoom qws. - Lub keeb kwm Tabac Blond Caron, tso tawm xyoo 1919, yog ib qho tsis hnov tsw tsw thiab muaj ib tus poj niam tom qab tsov rog nrog txiav plaub hau luv luv. Nws tau tsav tsheb, haus luam yeeb tus luam yeeb thiab tswj hwm nws lub neej."
Carmen twb tau hais, thiab tib lub sijhawm cov poj niam Cuban mulatto zoo nkauj tshaj plaws (Teb chaws Cuba tau yog ib qho chaw nyiam rau cov neeg nplua nuj Asmeskas), dov luam yeeb ntawm lawv cov ncej puab du, tau txais kev pabcuam los ua qhov kev txhawb nqa rau lub npe nrov thib ob luam yeeb ntawm thawj. peb lub hlis twg ntawm lub xyoo pua xeem - Habanita Molinard naj hoom (1922). Tus poj niam hluas ua si nrog tus niam ntev ntawm tus neeg haus luam yeeb nrog tus luam yeeb nyias hauv nws, txij ua ke mus ua ke nqa lub qhov ncauj rau nws daim di ncauj uas ci ntsa iab tau dhau los ua lub cim ntawm lub cim.
Maj mam tus naj npawb ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab khoo luaj li no. Galina Anni piav qhia "Cov neeg ua haujlwm rau lub cev tau raug tshoov siab los ntawm cov neeg haus luam yeeb hauv tebchaws Turkey, luam yeeb cigars thiab lub suab nrov, cov pa luam yeeb, qab zib thiab txiv ntoo qab zib. - Raws li lub tswv yim ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab, cov zaub ntsuab gourmand ntawm cov luam yeeb - qhov no, raws li cov kws kho mob, "cov tshuaj raug cai" - tsim qhov chaw ntawm bliss, ib qho chaw ntawm seraglio qhov twg narghile haus luam yeeb thiab xyab hlawv, lossis, ntawm qhov tsis sib xws, tus ntsuj plig ntawm cov txiv neej lub koom haum kaw lossis cov neeg haus luam yeeb bowling nrog tus ntxhiab tsw ntxhiab ntawm whiskey ". Los ntawm txoj kev, zib ntab pom tau ua "tus khub" luam yeeb rau qhov laj thawj: nws yog thawj qhov qab zib uas tib neeg tau paub ntev dua li qab zib, thiab yog li ntawd zib ntab tseem pom tias yog lub cim ntawm bliss, khoom kim heev thiab kev txhaum. Zib ntab siv tsis yog rau kev qab zib, tab sis kuj rau cov txheej txheem kev tu tawv nqaij, thiab tib lub sijhawm rau cov ntawv sau cia thiab hais txog kev ua txhaum.
Kev hloov pauv ntawm cov pa luam yeeb cov ntsiab lus tau muab thawj cov tshuaj tsw qab, uas tam sim no hu ua "unisex". Raws li cov kws tshaj lij piav, "txiv neej hnav ntxhiab pa luam yeeb los qhia txog lawv txoj kev ua neej tsis zoo, poj niam - androgyny," thiab tib lub sijhawm - tshem tawm, txoj cai tshiab uas tau txais ntawm cov sib luag ntawm cov tib neeg hauv zej zog, ntawm nws tus kheej kom tau txais kev nyob thiab tsis vam tus khub lossis tsev neeg.
Lub qhov ncauj tsw qab kim muaj xws li haus luam yeeb tiag. Qhov no yog ua tiav los ntawm kev ua cov txheej txheem ntawm cov khoom nyoos kom zoo nkauj. Galina Anni hais tias "Kev haus luam yeeb txog tau los ntawm kev rho tawm cov nplooj haus luam yeeb." "Nws muaj lub ntiaj teb, sib sib zog nqus, woody, ntsim, ntxhiab balsamic uas ua lub hauv paus ntawv hauv cov tshuaj tsw qab kim uas cov neeg tsim muaj peev xwm them taus xws li cov khoom kim kim."
Txawm li cas los xij, muaj ntau txoj hauv kev kom tau haus luam yeeb-zib ntab pom zoo siv cov qauv tshiab ntawm cov tshuaj lom neeg. Matvey Idov, tus kws tshuaj hauv kws qhia txog tshuaj tsw qab rau cov tshuaj tsw qab zib thiab luam yeeb yog cov damascones, lossis liab ketones. - Damascons muaj lub aroma ua txoj. Ntxiv nrog rau qhov cia lub rose thiab haus luam yeeb-zib ntab pom zoo, koj tuaj yeem hnov cov txiv hmab txiv ntoo qhuav, kua jam thiab txawm tias yim pab mint muaj."
Raws li cov kws tshaj lij, cov khoom siv hluavtaws uas tsim cov roj av ntawm damascones, tshwj xeeb tshaj yog beta-damascenone, tau kawg, tsis kim npaum li qhov tsis kam ntawm cov luam yeeb qhuav nplooj, tab sis tsis txhob hais tias lawv pheej yig: nws yog txheej txheem thev naus laus zis. Hauv cov tshuaj sib xyaw ua ke uas muaj zib ntab thiab haus luam yeeb, nws nyob ib sab mus rau cov leeg, coumarin (o-hydroxycinnamic acid lactone), uas ntxiv ib qho lus ceeb toom ntawm vanilla, tonka thiab almonds rau cov tshuaj tsw qab, zoo li ethyl maltol (caramel nrog hint ntawm strawberry lossis txiv pos). Txhua yam qab zib raws li kev txhaum.
Kev txhaum, raws li koj paub, tsis muaj tub los ntxhais. Thiab nws yog luam yeeb-zib ntab uas, zoo li tsis muaj lwm tus, xav txog lub tswv yim ntawm unisex cov tshuaj tsw qab: lawv tsim nyog rau txiv neej thiab poj niam. Txawm li cas los xij, rau cov tshuaj tsw qab loj, qhov kev faib tawm no, qhov tseeb, yeej tsis muaj, tsuas yog nws tsis muaj nyob rau cov neeg siv tau ntev: yuav luag txog thaum nruab nrab ntawm lub xyoo pua kawg, cov tshuaj tsw qab tsis tau muab faib ua txiv neej thiab poj niam, thiab tsuas yog kev ntseeg xwb ntawm masculinity, uas kuj tau sawv tsis yog tsis muaj kev sib txuas nrog lub ntiaj teb kev ua tsov ua rog, yuam cov naj hoom nrhiav kev nyiam poj niam txiv neej sau ntawv ua ntau lub cim nco txog hliv homme ntawm lub hwj.
Nyob rau tib lub sijhawm, ntau ntawm "lub qhov ntswg", piv txwv li Pierre Bourdon, tsis zais qhov tseeb tias, hauv lawv qhov kev xav, daim ntawv sau no tsuas yog qhov txawv ntawm txiv neej thiab poj niam tshuaj tsw qab. Hauv 90s, lub tswvyim ntawm unisex triumphantly xa rov qab nrog lub teeb tes ntawm Calvin Klein, txawm hais tias tsawg leej thiaj li nco tias keeb kwm ntawm tus tub los ntxhais ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab yog luv heev.
Nrog tib lub tswvyim, tus tsim ntawm By Kilian lub npe Kilian Hennessy thiab nws tus kws koom ua ke ntev, naj hoom Calis Becker, mus ze rau kev tsim lawv cov cawv luam yeeb, Back to Black ntxhiab (2006). Hauv cov tshuaj tsw qab no (muaj npe tej zaum tsis yog tsawg kawg los ntawm tus neeg ua yeeb yaj kiab nrov ntawm tib lub npe los ntawm 2006 los ntawm "tus neeg ua txhaum tus neeg hu nkauj" Amy Winehouse), cov zib ntab dawb thiab haus luam yeeb tau ua tiav los ntawm cov qab zib ntawm gingerbread, vanilla, almonds thiab teeb tsa los ntawm cov txuj lom ntawm cov kab mob, cardia thiab nutmeg. Qhov tshwm sim yog qhov ci ntsa iab heev, ntse, muaj pes tsawg leeg, ua rau muaj kev zoo siab thiab tshwj xeeb tshaj yog pom tseeb nyob rau hauv txias - ntawm daim tawv kub npog nrog furs lossis muag heev cashmere.
Cov khoom siv no tau npaj nrog kev txhawb nqa ntawm Estee Lauder.
