Peb yuav nkag siab zoo li cas olfactory pyramid thiab olfactory nco yog, cov ntxhiab tsw chypre txawv ntawm amber sawv daws yuav zoo li cas, thiab yuav ua li cas kom paub txog cov tshuaj tsw qab thiab paub txog txhua qib ntawm lawv cov aroma.
Cov ntxhiab tsw qab puas yog dab tsi?
Lub aroma pyramid, lossis olfactory pyramid, yog kev maj mam nthuav tawm ntawm cov aroma. Raws li txoj cai, muaj peb daim ntawv sau hauv ib qho ntawm lawv: lub hauv paus, nruab nrab (aka "plawv nco") thiab sab saud. Cov ntawv sau rau sab saum toj yog cov ntxhiab tsw uas peb hnov rau thawj thawj 5-10 feeb (kua qaub, bergamot, txiv qaub thiab lwm yam tsw qab). Cov ntawv sau nruab nrab qhia txog tom qab cov ntawv sau sab saum toj hnav thiab kav ntev dua - ntev txog ntau teev. Ntawm no koj tuaj yeem twb hnov cov khoom sib txawv: txiv hmab txiv ntoo, nplaim paj, ntsim. Cov ntawv teev hauv paus yog qhov feem ntau tsis tu ncua thiab kawg, lawv mus txog lawv lub suab ncov siab ntev txog 2 teev thiab hnov zoo li tsawg kawg 6-8 teev. Lub aroma pyramid, nrog tag nrho nws qhov seem tsis yog qhov xwm txheej, yog qhov xwm txheej theej, vim qhov kev xav ntawm qee yam ntawv sau cia yog qhov txheej txheem theej.
Dab tsi ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab muaj?
Cov tshuaj tsw qab tau muab faib ua hom, ntawm cov uas muaj ntau heev. Ntawm no yog qhov tseem ceeb. Yog li, piv txwv li, chypre yog sage, patchouli, Oak ntxhuab. Ambergris muaj cov tshuaj tsw qab ntawm lavender cov nroj tsuag thiab roj, aldehydes yog tam sim no, piv txwv li, hauv Chanel 5 thiab Chanel 22 naj hoom - cov no yog cov tshuaj tsw qab uas yog cov tshuaj los ntawm cov tshuaj sib tov ntawm aldehydes. Los ntawm txoj kev, lawv kuj suav nrog dej hiav txwv (dej hiav txwv). Sab hnub tuaj (kab qauv) - aromas ntawm ntoo, vanilla, cob, tawv - nrog sau ntawv ntawm cov tawv ntoo thiab juniper, fougere - geranium, ntoo qhib ntxhuab thiab lavender.
Yuav qhia koj hnov ntxhiab tsw li cas?
Yog lawm, tib neeg tau yug los zoo li lub ntsej muag zoo li Peter Greenaway, tus cwj pwm ntawm Suskind cov ntawv tshiab "The Perfumer," tab sis tsis yog txhua tus. Yog li ntawd, qhov tseem ceeb yog qhov kev cob qhia tas mus li. Piv txwv li, sim ua kom paub txog 3-4 flavours hauv ib hnub. Lub ntsiab nyuaj yog qhov uas tsis muaj npe. Peb hu rau ntsim ntsim sab hnub tuaj muaj ntxhiab hnyav, thiab cov kua qaub ntxhiab tsw qab. Perfumers muaj hom lus ntawm lawv tus kheej. Cia hais tias cov ntxhiab tsw qab zib tuaj yeem piav tau qhov tshiab, muaj kua, qaub, hnub ci, thiab tsis tsuas yog lub teeb. Ntxiv rau lwm qhov hauv physiology - lub receptors rau qhov pom ntawm cov ntxhiab tsw yog nyob rau sab qaum ntawm lub qhov ntswg ntawm lub qhov ntswg thiab nyob rau sab ntawm qhov khiav ntawm nqus pa. Twb tau los ntawm cov receptors, impulses xa mus rau lub hlwb. Ua ntej, txoj hau kev coj mus rau lub limbic system thiab tsuas yog tom qab ntawd dhau mus rau hauv lub cerebral cortex. Raws li, qib kev hnov ntxhiab tsw nyob ntawm qhov ceev ntawm kev lam ua thiab ib leeg lav ris. Kev cim xeeb ntau ntau ntawm aromas hu ua olfactory nco. Muaj ib qho tseem ceeb - yog tias koj haus luam yeeb, nws yuav nyuaj, vim tias luam yeeb npub cov kev xav ntawm saj thiab tsw.
Yuav ua li cas kom paub thiab tus ntxhiab txoj cai?
Hauv khw muag khoom perfumery, nws feem ntau hnov tsw ntawm tag nrho cov naj hoom ib zaug, yog li nws nyuaj rau kev ntes tag nrho cov palette. Ntxiv rau koj yeej tsis siv sijhawm li ob peb teev nyob rau ntawd kom paub txhua feem ntawm lub hauv. Yog tias koj muaj sijhawm, koj tuaj yeem tso cov ntxhiab uas koj nyiam tshaj tawm rau ntawm blotter thiab tawm mus sab nraud. Los yog nqa cov qauv koj nyiam nrog koj. Kas fes taum, raws li perfumers, yog lus dab neeg. Txhawm rau kom tshem tau cov receptors, nws tseem zoo dua rau kev tsuas yog ib qho hlwv dej.
Puas muaj cov tsev kawm tshwj xeeb uas lawv qhia kom nkag siab txog aromas?
Yog muaj. Thiab tsev kawm ntawv, thiab chav ua haujlwm, thiab chav kawm tswv yim rau kev ua tshuaj tsw qab. Yog lawm, muaj ib qho nyuaj - cov tsev kawm ntawv tshuaj tsw qab nyob Xos Viav tsis muaj ntawv pov thawj thiab, raws li, koj yuav tsis tau txais xeev daim ntawv pov thawj hauv lawv. Muaj lub tsev kawm ntawv pleev tshuaj tsw qab, uas tau ua haujlwm txij li xyoo 2013, hauv St. Petersburg (qhov kev kawm nyob deb yog ua tau, tab sis koj tseem yuav tsum tuaj rau qhov kev sib kho). Koj tuaj yeem nkag mus tau rau ntawm qhov kev xam phaj thiab xeem. Cov neeg kawm tiav qib siab tuaj yeem yog ob tus neeg thuam thiab tus kws sau ntawv tsw qab. Muaj lub tsev tshuaj sim hauv tsev kawm ntawv. Nws raug nqi, nyob ntawm daim ntawv ntawm kev kawm (tag nrho-sijhawm, ib nrab sijhawm) los ntawm 125,000 txog 210,000 rubles.
Lub "Perfumer" lub tsev kawm tau ua haujlwm nyob rau hauv Moscow txij li xyoo 2015. Nov yog tus kws sau lub tswv yim ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab Anna Agurina. Chav kawm yog npaj rau cov uas xav ntawm nws tus kheej kawm paub yuav ua li cas pleev tshuaj tsw qab thiab nkag siab txog cov tshuaj tsw qab. Qhov kev cob qhia suav nrog 4 tus qauv: txhua ntawm lawv coj ntawm tus kheej thiab kav 5 hnub rau 7 teev. Qhov kawg, Thib 4, qib tshwm sim hauv Fabkis, hauv Grasse, thiab feem ntau nws yog kev coj ua. Tus nqi ntawm kev cob qhia yog 1,200 Euro ib tus qauv. Thaum kawm tiav, daim ntawv pov thawj los ntawm Grasse lub koom haum ntawm Perfumery muab.
Yog tias koj xav paub txog cov hauv paus lossis ntaub ntawv ntau ntxiv, tom qab ntawd koj tuaj yeem nyeem cov blog ntawm perfumer Anna Zworykina, uas nws tham txog cov kev txawj olfactory, ntuj perfumery thiab ntau yam khoom xyaw.
Cov haujlwm ua haujlwm muaj nyob ntawm Tsev khaws puav pheej naj hoom Sixties. Lawv raug coj los ntawm Galina Anni, tus naj hoom, tus tshaj tawm thiab tus tsim ntawm ib pab pawg naj hoom. Muaj koj tuaj yeem mloog cov kev cob qhia txog keeb kwm ntawm cov tshuaj tsw qab thiab cov tshuaj tsw qab, thiab tseem koom nrog naj hoom kev ua haujlwm. Teem sij hawm thiab kaw lus tso rau ntawm qab zib Sixties Facebook pab pawg.
